Santiago travel guide: What to do in three days

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LATAM’s direct Auckland flight reaches Santiago just after 2pm.

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Costanera Center in Santiago, Chile. Photo / Getty Images

Chile’s capital city, Santiago, an 11-hour flight from Auckland, is the perfect gateway to myriad South American destinations, but Brett Atkinson suggests spending three days here first.

With a spectacular background of the foothills of the Andes, Santiago is a compelling, cosmopolitan and authentic destination after the long-haul flight from New Zealand. Before travelling on to Rio de Janeiro, Machu Picchu or Iguazu Falls, ease into South America via food, street art and history in the Chilean capital.

Day 1

6pm

Crossing the International Date Line, LATAM’s direct flight (LA800) from Auckland to Chile leaves New Zealand at 7.10pm and touches down in Santiago just after 2pm on the same calendar day. It’s an 11-hour flight, so after clearing immigration, head straight into the city and check in to The Singular. One of Santiago’s most distinctive boutique hotels is near the bohemian buzz of the Lastarria barrio (neighbourhood). Decompress from the flight with twilight views of the city’s skyline from the hotel’s rooftop lounge. South America-inspired shared plates including Chiloé Island oysters from Chile’s Lake District, and empanada pastries with king crab from the frigid southern waters of Patagonia. After a long flight, you’ll probably also want a pisco sour, Chile’s signature cocktail.

Day 2

8.30am

Stretch your legs on the short walk to Lastarria for a DIY breakfast. Combine a robust cortado from 3841 Coffee Roasters with an artisan sourdough sandwich from Madrisima! Bakery. Ask for everything “para llevar, por favor” – “to take away, please” – and jockey with morning commuters and pavement traders as you detour down Avenida Libertador Bernardo O’Higgins to Palacio de La Moneda. From Lastarria to the neo-classical building, also known as the Presidential Palace, it’s a walk of 20 minutes along Santiago’s most historic main avenue.

9.30am

Arrive at La Moneda by 9.30am for a good vantage point of a tradition dating back to 1851. From 10am on alternate mornings, La Moneda’s Plaza de la Constitución features the Changing of the Guard. Look forward to massed drummers and a brass band, bucketloads of pomp, ceremony and circumstance, and damn fine tailoring. Lasting 30 minutes, it’s a stirring reminder of Chile’s Spanish and German military heritage. An equine touch is added by two detachments of carabineros (mounted units). Search “La Moneda” on santiagoturismo.cl for performance dates, as they vary by month through the year.

11.30am

From La Moneda, it’s a 10-minute stroll through the architectural canyons of Santiago’s Centro district to Plaza de Armas. Dating from 1541 when Pedro de Valdivia founded the city, Santiago’s geographical centre is anchored by the Santiago Metropolitan Cathedral, rebuilt in different architectural styles following multiple earthquakes across the centuries. Graffiti and an urban grittiness add a rough edge to the city’s historic hub, but on a weekday morning there’s usually a safe and welcoming vibe with street artists, buskers and locals playing chess. Just be extra mindful of your belongings. Nearby, the Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino (Chilean Museum of Pre-Columbian Art) is regarded as the city’s finest arts institution.

1pm

Back in Lastarria, traditional Chilean sandwiches crammed with roast pork are popular for an Anthony-Bourdain approved lunch at Bar Liguria. Secure a table in the courtyard framed by colourful street art and continue nearby to stores selling vintage vinyl along Avenida Merced.

3pm

Cross the Mapocho River to Bellavista, a raffish barrio enlivened by street art and daubed in pastel hues. After dark, bars, restaurants and nightclubs attract partying Santiaguinos, but an essential daytime attraction is La Chascona, the former home of Nobel Prize-winning poet and Chilean diplomat, Pablo Neruda. Concealed in the forested folds of Cerro San Cristóbal, one of two squat hills rising from Santiago’s flat terrain, it’s a homage to a globe-spanning life incredibly well-lived. With curved windows and portholes, the house resembles a boat, and was built by ocean lover Neruda for clandestine rendezvous with his lover Matilde Urrutia.

4.30pm

From La Chascona, walk 400m to catch the funicular up Cerro San Cristóbal. Views from the squat summit include the soaring towers of Santiago’s Los Condes financial district – aka “Sanhattan” – and, cloud cover permitting, further east towards the foothills of the Andes.

6.30pm

Return down to Bellavista for dinner at Peumayén Ancestral Food, where menus are inspired by Chile’s indigenous pre-Hispanic cuisine. Book ahead for dishes including Rapa Nui (Easter Island) tuna ceviche and a delicate tartare of Tierra del Fuego guanaco (a smaller camelid related to alpacas and llamas).

Day 3

10am

Journey by Uber to Barrio Quinta Normal – another barrio with good street art – and Santiago’s Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos (Museum of Memory and Human Rights). Opened in 2010, it remembers the victims of human rights violations during Chile’s right-wing military dictatorship between 1973 and 1990. Often challenging viewing, especially when detailing the stories of individuals and families, it’s essential for understanding the impact of recent history on Chilean society. A set of 1970s aircraft steps, marked with the words “Asilo & Exilo” (“Asylum & Exile”), poignantly represents the 200,000 Chileans who left the country during the dictatorship.

2pm

Hearty pastel de choclo (pie with corn, meat, olives, raisins and a hard-boiled egg) is a signature local dish at Casa Lastarria. Housed in a slightly incongruous Tudor-style building dating back to the 1930s, the restaurant has an excellent, Chilean-focused wine list. If the weather’s warm, adjourn to the rooftop terrace.

4pm

Nearby, along Avenida Merced, Recuerda Chile (“Remember Chile”) is a gallery featuring artwork and photography infused with the energy of Santiago’s 2019 to 2021 protests, reinforcing an ongoing tradition of social resistance in the city. Artwork, souvenirs and homewares from local designers and indigenous Chilean craftspeople are also available.

5pm

By late afternoon, Lastarria has morphed from a laidback pedestrian precinct to an energetic night market and event space. Buskers are often channelling Victor Jara, the iconic Chilean folk singer killed by the military junta in 1973, while book stalls and market traders sell tote bags, T-shirts, photography and screen prints, often with a politically-charged focus.

7pm

Options for dinner include Chipe Libre Républica Independiente del Pisco, where tasting flights of Chile’s signature spirit, pisco, are paired with ceviche, steak and seafood. Popular shared plates include shrimp tacos and the raw fish and fiery chilli hit of the tiradito. Right next door and featuring varietals from all around the country, Bocanariz is Santiago’s most established wine bar. Wine-growing regions nearest to the city include the Maipo Valley south of Santiago, and the Casablanca Valley to the west near Chile’s Pacific Coast. With extra time in Santiago, both historic areas can be visited as relaxed day trips including wine-tasting and lunch. Book tours and overnight accommodation with colchaguawinetours.com.

CHECKLIST:

Getting there

Fly with LATAM on direct flights linking Auckland with Santiago. From Santiago, join their regional network for onward travel to Peru, Brazil and other South American destinations.

Details

Rooms at The Signature start at around US$300 ($500) per night. See thesingular.com.

Santiago is generally safe for visitors, but petty theft can occur in crowded tourist areas. Avoid displaying jewellery or phones, carry day packs and bags in front of you, and use registered taxis or Uber after dark. Be wary of distraction techniques such as strangers pointing out non-existent “stains” on your clothing or “accidentally” bumping into you and then apologising.

Note also that most of Santiago’s museums are closed on Mondays, including all the institutions listed above.

The writer was a guest of The Singular Hotel.

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